This is AFRICA

The produce is amazing.

Me and Nimu, Fidelis' room mate.

Finally I have internet! It has taken a lot of negotiating and asking around about what the best option is for internet. I have settled with “safaricom”, the cell phone company that seems to rule east Africa and they sold me an expensive little gadget that is essentially a cell phone line that you plug into your USB port. Unfortunately it only works at certain times and currently I can’t get on. I want to apologize to my parents who have been very concerned about my safety. I didn’t discover the internet cafes here until 3 days after my arrival and adjusting has taken up most of my concentration. I have arrived safely and I will reside here in Kisumu the majority of my 3 month stay. It has been a crazy journey getting here though. (see earlier posts.)

I have been journaling on this handy little macbook on the way so I will not spare you any details and post everything. I hope you are a good skim reader…. I know all you want to see is pictures. Either way, this is a nice resource even for me to look back on. Soon I will get into picture posting mode.

There have been several “oh my goodness I’m alone in Africa!” moments along the way but I can feel them turning into: “of course I’m here in Africa feeling all these things I’ve never felt before. This is what I signed up for.” Still, little is familiar here and I’m realizing that my prior African experience through the Bible League in Ghana was nothing compared to this. Here in Kisumu I must live much differently than what I know to be comfortable.

Public transportation is one way to experience a culture. You have:

• Jam-packed Matau’s (small vans with sliding doors, blasted reggae or R&B music and the strong smell of BO- widow seats are best). Only 10 ksh.
• Boda boda’s (bicycles with a large padded area above the back wheel and handle bars) Only 15 ksh.
• Tuk-tuk’s (small, 3-tired, open motorized vehicles, often ridden alone). 70-100 ksh.
• Regular taxis which are convenient and comfy but too expensive. (arounf 500 ksh)

I have experienced them all! Each day I have been here, Nimu, Fidelis’ roommate has taken me downtown Kisumu to shop for shoes, internet connections, cell phone and to get my hair braided. There is little running water and only cold streams here in Fidelis’ apartment making showering a fair bit of work, especially with my long hair. I found it in my best interest to get hair extensions done again and though they itch a bit, are quite heavy and will probably thin out my hair completely, it has made life much, much easier.

Learning the currency is a challenge. I need to know when I’m being ripped off which will be always, sine I am white. Luckily Nimu yells at people when I am being ‘taken advantage of’. The Kenyan shilling has been gaining strength, causing serious inflation. 1 $ CDN = 65 KsH. A coke is 40 KsH, but maybe that was just the white man’s price, I’m not sure. I’ve never liked bartering, arguing over money and negotiating with the begging people. It's quite frustrating and I tend to give in before they do. I am like a white god or at least an awkward looking person sticking out like a sore thumb and likely caring loads of cash walking down the streets.

I have to walk without looking at anyone ignoring all the calls. It is so good and for me to feel like a lone minority for the first time in my life. Conspicuity. There are so, so many eager young men here. If I didn’t know better I’d say they make up the population. Something wonderful called “the sisterhood” happened to me today when I was walking quickly down a busy street alone for the first time. I was stopped by a group of friendly 20-30 year old men all wanting to shake my hand and ask me questions. A random nearby girl called to me, “come we must go!” and I excused myself and followed beside her down the street. She said, “I’m watching out for you. Don’t talk to men or even look at them.” I thanked her, we laughed, and parted ways.

Fidelis arrived 2 nights ago and she is so wonderful! Her presence is relaxed and words are all very wise. Prior to her arrival I have just been adjusting, getting set up in her home and reading. Fidelis is the first person I can speak quickly to. She might be the only one from this city who has traveled abroad. With everyone else I have been taking on a strange British/African accent, over pronouncing “t’s” and slowing everything right down. It feels patronizing but they say I am very easy to understand, so it is good. Sarah N in Uganda called me the other night (so nice!) said she is experiencing the same thing.

My main frustration is not understanding the language. Most people know English but they are used to mixing it with Swahili and Luo, the language specific to the Luo tribe that settled this area. It is very difficult to understand and contribute to the conversations around me because I miss key words all the time. My goal is to get through the ‘learn Swahili book’ that Jamie lent to me soon. Apparently that will help a lot (or at least make me look like I’m trying). Asante-sana.

Fidelis and I have been discussing the coming 3 months. She has given me ideas of things that I can be responsible for in my time here.... mostly documentation. They have good staff working for MICH but they lack administrative/documentation skills. Since I am only here for 3 months, we have established that I am here to lay foundations for future initiatives for MICH, specifically in business. Africa is a paradox. The most impoverished but still the most wealthy in natural resources. Fidelis is intent on working towards effective business practices and environmental awareness here that will reduce this paradox.

Now that I am here and settling in, I feel ready to work with MICH. On Monday I will go see where MICH works and stay a night out in “the field”/Kakamega forests with the local MICH staff.